Wednesday, 30 November 2016
Its that time of year when Father Xmass, Black Friday, and credit cards get confused, Blackxmassno credit etc, or something.
I was climbing on warn out shoes, holes in them, waiting for a supply from my friendly Mountain Boot Company, some shoes to tide me over, yeeesss Xmass arrived just on time-early.
Why wait for Xmass? Have it when you want, when you can, can you imagine dying on Xmass eve, and those presents being there, wrapped up and left unused!
The god of the Jews, the god of Muslims, the god of the Christians is the same one, it's just the wrapping thats different.
I am getting ready to face my 60th year, I will harp on about it no end, you will get bored, but I won't. I will get fit, I'll be active, I will have a productive enjoyable year, I will not wait, I will not waste, one life and you can improve it, you just need to try hard. Good food, good sleep, hard exersise, and a few nice rewards for being true to your self, and not turning in to a bloated TV watching, couch munching excuse.
I did 10 sets of pull ups before not eating my breakfast, how's that? I'am not boasting, I'am being funny ok. I will go swimming, and diving, and celebrate my own gods today, the gods of being healthy, of seeing untrammelled things. Breakfast is postponed till after swimming, then I will eat cake sent by Her Royal majesty "lucky sperm inheritor of purloined shiny hat", who begs off the UKs poor, to do up her dolls House. Happy pre Xmass to all those Royals in the world, from Bonny Prince Stevie.
Monday, 28 November 2016
Reluctant to celebrate the death of a dictator, I went climbing, and mused on the definition of words. Just like climbing grades that purport to give you an idea of difficulty, political words, or designations are very much up for discussion, or lets discount them after all its Black Friday! Castro good bye, well done for having the highest literacy rate in the Americas, hopefully many of the nasty things attributed to you were either false, or exaggerated. A dictator that spent 54 percent of the countries money on social services, and survived that harassment of the worlds most powerful country, must have been at least a good chess player.
The Berlin wall came down in 1989, since then they introduced parking fees and no bivouacking at Elbe Sandstone, thus turning away climbers from their home turf
Funny how words are now so important to people who have forgot that Poetry exists.
I am not a hippy, not even an idealist, I don't even like most people, but hay what's happening in America, and the UK is gonna back fire.
breath in from the belly, empty your head, for some people this is easy.
Fed up with the world I go under the surface of the water, peace returns, if only for a short while. When you are running out of air you can get a certain lucidity about things. The same goes when you are about to take a big flight through the air! Many people in America and the UK have reached that lucid point, they don't trust the politicians and want a Shaman. Beware the Shaman.
Shaman is a 7c+ in cave, it's very nice if brutal, and if you get anywhere at all on it, it leaves your fingers bleeding. Thats why I go free diving, death will just be a slippery glide to no tomorrow. As Tracy Chapman sung in "Talkin bout a revolution"
"while they are standing in those welfare lines", and I will add "with their money reduced and only able to buy shit food", people will get fed up, and might say "no". The Standing Rock complaint in America which apparently doesn't see the light of day on American mainstream media is a very peaceful protest about theft, and bullying by Coporations, it is being met by cruel militarised Police! Welcome to the machine.
Saturday, 26 November 2016
Gozo has some nice little cliffs, with good ambiance. Weid Mielah is a strangely named cliff with a rock arch and generally pleasant climbs, theres a few exceptions, theres the big roof 8b, 7 knee bars in a row, and fairly hard, and mystifying unless your a Mensa Ninja.
Another little route with a bite, is called "In and Out", it goes into the back of a cave, and out again! Imaginativly named it is not, but after you do it, please add up how many brain cells you have left!
The rock is stoned immaculate, it's really special, big "Gout de eaux" which take some friends for protection.
Then there is a belly flop onto a damp ledge, and some squirming.
The sea was occasionally spurting, but didn't get us wet. The whole route is better as a deep water solo, but it does have a hard move which will probably give you an early bath time.
After a sweet little belay among incredible holes, you have to go further into the cave, and bridge out, and traverse the opposite wall, it's a bit chaotic on the brain, spacial awareness goes haywire!
Well you have to be aware that this climb is not the sum of its moves! It is more a journey into corners of your own neurosis. I will thoughtlessly recommend it to people who have high anxiety in their normal lives, should give them perspective.
Friday, 25 November 2016
It's winter time, and you should be thinking of doing some systematic training, or going some where, away from rain! Of course you can do both, or better, live some where better. Where is better? Some where without nasty Nazzi politicians, yes!
Heres a couple of free tips, use this winter to get really fit, not just for climbing, but for all the other benefits too, like good health. Drop those 5 or 10 lbs, eat more veg.
Do some finger boarding, do some yoga, 15 mins of each will break you into a new grade on top of what you do now! Its a bargain.
Buy a well fitting pair of shoes with sticky rubber, and whisper to your self, place correctly, push correctly, propel correctly.
More fun and success from me.
Thursday, 17 November 2016
It should be clear to nearly everybody in the western world, or maybe even the whole world that there has defiantly been a mega shift to the right, and for the elite. And its obviously only going to get worse. The only question is can it be put into reverse, because it seems on a roller coaster to hell.
Yoga doesn't help at the moment.
God spoke to me today and I don't even look like Blair or Bush.
It seems you only have one choice today, that is bore your self to death by trying, probably fruitlessly, to bring your politicians into account.
The Docter Strange Love situation we seem to have been shanghaied into, has come about how exactly, talk of atomic weapons when the only thing people want is not room to expand for the people, but a new I phone. When people actively support war in countries that they have no clue as to their whereabouts, with supposed terrorists who may, or may not be funded by either our allies, or even our selves. Is it not peculiar that at this time when we don't have money in either the USA or the UK for poor people, we seem to have money to kill innocent people? Who is the devil here. If the UK goes on like this we will be exporting our own immigrants, because the banks will be evicting them, and we will be saying cripples and the mentally ill are eligible for work. Strike that last sentence out, we are doing that already. The Cons are killing people by neglect, and reducing their dole, letting them fall through the cracks into the rock hard uncertain future.
Go climbing before it is decided its subversive, or its taxed, or stand up and be counted. In the last few days in America many people have stood up and been counted for the racism of its new president. But hey they never stood up before, when Bush starting wasting people of a certain race, and his successors continued this racist policy. It is racist, when people don't care when your just wasting "A rabs" isn't it? Its the same with recist police isn't it when they target Blacks? And don't for one second think I am just talking about America, numbers show that although we in the UK don't kill them, we still jail them.
Wednesday, 19 October 2016
My pupil did an 8b standard yesterday, and I am very proud of him, well done Patrick. I have had some success lately at teaching people the finer points of climbing, in many different grades, it is gratifying. However Patrick has pleased me immensely, he came here stronger than before and despite an upsetting decision at a comp has just enjoyed his climbing. Climbing is magic sometimes.
The link between a climber and success, is the contact of his skin on the handholds, and the rubber on the footholds. Between these things is a massively complicated process of confidence, a harmony of understanding, and a precision of timed movement. Does that sound complicated? It is. But it is overcome by having Golden Feet, and a bit of strength!
And not forgetting flexibility, and relaxation of unnecessary tension….
An Octopus has 8 brains, he is able to control an incredibly complex amount of succers on complicated 3 dimensional operating limbs, they rant just Golden Feet they also have the ability to change colour at will! They are truly amazing, we must aspire to be like Octopus!
After Patrick walked up one of the most beautiful routes on the island I went swimming to Cathedral Cave with my grandchildren. The sea was a bit choppy for Leo and Harmony and Melody, they are not fully aquatic, they are rock climbing hounds, but the sea is a mystery to them. There oohs and ahhs were a profound joy to me. As was Patricks Golden Feet. Nice day.
Sunday, 9 October 2016
Temperatures are still very high and the sea even got warmer this week. Its a bit hot for hard routes and although I am climbing, my ability to fight seems submerged. Just pleasant routes with lovely people.
These photos above are for Ken my mate, we exchanged some tales, fisherman's and climbing tales can be bigger, and badder than ordinary life sometimes. So thats the new cliff, possible 9a etc Ken.
We are a bit weird on the is tiny insignificant island sometimes our egos are out of step with being the smallest island in the Eu, but hey at least we are still in the EU!
Master Ken the Natural.
Ken is working too much, like most of my friends but he took the time to come and drag me out today, thanks Ken! He and his girl friend looked smart using a Mono Fin for the first time, it was great to spread some joy with a new toy. On one dive at about 24 meters just as I was turning I came face to face with the biggest Octopus I have ever seen, arms a meter long, and spread out, to its full size. It was huge, it reared up, looked at me with a veiled threat! At this depth the Mixed Martial Arts fight would have gone the wrong way I feared, so a quick hello, and I swore I saw him say, "I'd have you for breakfast". Nice one Octo. The wreck further out looked tantalising at depth, Ken was thinking it looked so close, but in reality 35 meters is not close. Not for us anyway. Its just like an 8a sport climb when "you know you can do it", but you can't.